Cartagena
The city of Cartagena de Indias is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Colombia and also one of the oldest and at one time most important cities in the Spanish Colonies.
The historic port was the gateway through which goods flowed to and from Spain. The gold, silver and foods of the Americas went east to Europe (changing the economies and cuisines of Europe).
In exchange, goods and people came from Europe and Africa, both free and enslaved, drastically changing almost every aspect of life on the continent.
The city itself is massive, tourists are encouraged to stick to either the very modern wealthy hotel district, or the old walled city which is heavily policed. I stayed in the walled city, where almost all of the buildings have gorgeous colonial exteriors, but hidden within are the most awe inspiring courtyard interiors. Spanish style architecture builds rooms around a central courtyard, these courtyards are like the center piece of dining room, they overwhelm the viewer with beauty from all angles.
There is likely a coffee table photography book called interior courtyards of Cartagena, and it is full of the hidden beauty. That is the downside of course, the buiding is built around the gardens and fountains so from the street you cant see anything.
In Cartagena I found several churches, a castle, some museums and public squares. But each of these on their own is really not all that impressive. Its the impact of the whole, the complex beauty of horse carts on streets, african drumming in squares at night, beautiful buildings, fortress walls, bright bold colors and paintings, a richly complex -painful but important history. The slight sense of danger wandering streets at night with many shady characters hanging about, mixed with the sense of pride and cleanliness the people have for the old city. Its the vibe of the city that propells you from place to place even though its 100 degrees and humid. Its the breeze that uplifts you, along with the sense that around the next corner anything is possible.
Medellin is Colombia's second biggest city. It is most famous for being the home of the deceased Drug King Pablo Escobar, but the legacy of drugs and violence, is rapidly being replaced by a reputation for public works, arts, public facilities and a great transportation network.
Many people have told me that Medelln was their favorite city in Colombia, I have spent the last few days trying to discover for myself why it leaves such a positive impression.
I spent quite a bit of time weaving through the market and commercal districts of the center -you can read a bit about this in a
previous post. I also went to a few churches and museums (unforunately two of them were closed for repairs). I have been walking the streets looking at all the public sculptures and today got to see a few of the sports centers.
The city is much cleaner than many of the other Colombian cities, but it is still a massively big city with a lot of traffic and smog. The surrounding area is almost like a nature reserve, beautiful pristine green hills and forests. Farms carved into the hills. The closest I could compare it (in my life) is like the green parts of colorado or Idaho after it has rained... but with tropical plants sprinkled in to let you know you are near the equator.
I wonder though, if the thing that sets most travelers at ease is the simplicity and elegance of the public transportation system. The metro includes trains, buses and a few lines of cable lifts, that lead into the hills... (one of the scariest rides of my life: described in a bit). The system is so easy to use and so well designed that anywhere in the city it feels like you can easily get to where you need to go. It puts your worries to rest, and I wonder if that is the main reason people feel so comfortable here. The metro provides easy access to the tourist sites and any place of interest, it also allows you to retreat to middle class neighborhoods that look more like home. It is a seamless transition for the outsider... but I wonder if the locals see distinctions and privilige where I find comfort.
I bring up this issue of class a lot in my reflections because I hear about invisible currents and tensions that would go unnoticed if I wasn't trying to pay attention.
Yet its complex, consider the following example:
Metrocable
On the outskirts of the city there are communities (called communas or favelas in Brazil) where there are many poorer people. They build their houses one floor at a time into the sides of the hills. Sometimes leaning perilously over steep slopes. The houses are built of the same materials as everywhere else brick and cement, but often using cheaper products such as hollow bricks, or making the walls 1 brick layer thick rather than two to three. Their roofs are corrugated tin, often held in place by brick used like paper weights. Every so often you see that someone has placed tiles over the corrugated tin -making the home look more complete rather than like a work in progress. But many of the houses are works in progress, each floor added when the previous one has been completed and settled into the hillside. Perhaps expanding when new materials can be purchased. Many of the houses were 3-4 levels high, but I don't have any idea many people live in each because I was told not to go to those areas.
So how do I know about the houses and the neighborhoods? Because as a tourist I am invited to take a cable car above them.
The cable car system is impressive and kind of massive. It has multiple stops, like a ski lift that goes to multiple hills. The car fills with 6-8 people, sitting extremely quietly and not shifting too much. The car lifts, swings a little, and goes up and down over the hills and communities below.
Because you are within meters of the houses, and the car is so quiet, you can hear everything. Children playing, arguments between couples, people selling goods, dogs barking, music, the sound of sports being played, hammers banging, cars and motorcycles trying to make their way up the hills, construction, roosters crowing... its almost nonstop of the sounds of a city... but you are separate. Sheltered and safe in your little bubble, taking pictures and videos of the neighborhoods and schools below. The thought occurs to you that you are taking pictures of the houses because the people are poor, and you consider for a moment that this cable car was built for your safety, but also to provide access for these poor folks to get to the jobs further into the city... and the 6-7 in your car might live in that house you are snapping pictures of so eagerly.
Is the metrocable created to provide access for them or for me? or can it be both?
Community Facilities
I cannot tell the difference in this city between public and private facilities... and I like that.
The stadium down the street includes a vast complex of courts, studios, rooms, practice floors, pools, fields etc. There is also a skate park outside and tons of room for groups to practice and show off.
The rich and poor alike come to these facilities and learn martial arts, play futbol, skate, swim and play. This complex was built in the middle class neighborhood, but is next to one of the stations on a main metro line which connects the city.
I read that there was a law that any new building in the city required the developers to contribute a chunk of money to public art, so as you walk around the city you see sculptures, and mosaics and beatiful art for the public good.
I havent been to any of the larger gardens, but I have been to several of the parks in the center and I am aware that the city has placed an emphasis on beautiful public spaces. Areas to connect with the natural world or view sculptures gifted to the city...
I consider these works for the public good, and wonder if perhaps its not just the transportation, but the incredible efforts made to advancing progress for the community as a whole that leaves people with a good impression.
