10 Ideas/Rules to Help You Survive and Enjoy Your Jungle Trek

I will likely post extra photos in the next day or two but until then here are 10 rules or ideas to remember when you are in the jungle.

1) Breathe. 

The descent into the jungle will take your breath away, whether it's the crazy turns back and forth through the cloudforest mountains, the dense humidity on your jungle hikes, or the spectacular views you will be breathless. Remember to breathe... Slowly... Calmly... Everything is better when you can get a little air in you. 

But remember NOT to breathe in the bugs... Because they will fly down your throat and up your nose and while you are caughing up a lung everyone else will just be hoping it doesn't happen to them (again).

Ooh cloud forest

ooh even more cloud forest

view of the jungle and river from slightly above

the jungle is so dense and humid that your photos turn out like this

2) Look up, look down, repeat.

The truth is that there are a million things to see all around you, but you will only be focused on two. The things that are hanging: spider webs, vines, leaves, snakes, branches etc. and the things beneath your feet: spider webs, vines, leaves, snakes, branches etc... 

No but seriously there will be a colorful spikey caterpillar beneath your boot and if you don't pay attention you will squash him and his lifeless body will go to the ants. 

one of many colorful spikey catepillars

Or a possibly poisonous snake squirming to get away and he will attack you if you step on him but otherwise you're ok. 

And the rocks and the mud and the leaves that hide things, and the 24 hour ant that if he bites you will leave you with an excruciating sting for 24 hours.

spikey trees... geez you thought you had enough to worry about with the catepillars

And the roots that trip you, and the army ants,  and well let's just say running head first into a branch because you're too busy looking down will happen... So

3) Embrace the Big Boots.

The big rubber boots will not be in your size, that's okay because when they are big they cover more area.

these boots were made for walking... across rivers, up hills, through the jungle and protecting you from snakes!

These boots are not a fashion statement, they are instead a life saving technology that is far more crucial to your survival than wifi. So embrace them. Even when they don't quite cover enough of your leg in the river and instead become a sort of full bath that you are carrying with you - wet socks and all.

4) Earplugs or learn to love the buzz.

You will find the jungle is as loud as any urban setting. However instead of car alarms and barking dogs you will hear the buzz.  The buzz is infuriating on multiple levels and will drive you mad. The far away buzz is the cicadas and grass hoppers. The loudest buzz is the horse flies and the unidentifiable wasps that look like they will kill you with one sting. These two will either buzz by one ear and then the other or leave you in a state of panic that is in-curable. The other buzz is the myriad of little flying things, Beatles, smaller flies, Mosquitos, and things you can't identify but scare the hell out of you. This is ordinary and is happening to everyone around you but you won't notice because you are too busy freaking out. The buzz is present day and night, but under your mosquito net you may feel safe except for the random crazy noises that happen in the night. And the ever present frog that sounds like a flock of ducks. 

is this the frog? or is it one of his hundreds of buddies?

The last of the real noises is the birds. Not so much a buzz or quack, these are the song birds that learn languages. So when you are walking through the jungle or on a boat on the river- you will assume monkeys are making that crazy screech or r2d2 beeping noise... 

But you are mistaken because it will always be some type of very colorful bird.    Always.    Bet on it gringo.

5) Laugh, because it's better than crying.

Hey remember how you got 2 gallons of water in your pants, soaking your socks? Time to laugh. 

Remember the buzzing that makes you want to go crazy.

Time to laugh.

Remember the frog duck that has kept you up for two hours?

Time to laugh.

Remember how you tripped on that root and landed on your now thuroighness bruised butt?

Time to laugh.

Remember the things to come on his poorly organized list?

Time to laugh. 

Remember how this sign is always hilarious?

Time to laugh.

6) Bug Spray

Did I mention the buzz? I used two different kinds and still got bit like 15 times.

I itch everywhere. What would have happened if I hadn't gone through a whole bottle of big spray in 3 days?

Bug spray everywhere! Your shoes, socks, pants, underpants, shirts, hats, hands... I got the most bites immediately proceeding a shower. I had mistakenly thought the clothes I put back on contained enough big spray already. I was so wrong. I thought my pants and shoes had enough so I didn't spray my socks... Right in the middle of lunch a horse fly bit me through my sock.

Bug spray is as important as water in the jungle. Speaking of water...

7) Everything is wet and sticky

Look it's 95 degrees and humid. You are in the jungle. Everything is wet including every inch of cloth on your body. Take a shower put some more damp clothes on.  You put on something dry? Wait 5 minutes. Between the dampness in the air and your sweat (the heat and the nervousness) it will be wet.  Not to mention you have to spray it with bug spray.

that sheen on my skin is the glow of jungle sweat,

that look on my face is the look of jungle panic

You will fall asleep totally exhausted, and wake up in panic because you are dripping. Your sheets and mosquito net will stick to you. 

This is reality now...see #5

8) The light and the dark 

A night hike to see the snakes and caimans and jaguars sounds like a great idea until you hear the buzz, until you're drenched in sweat and bug spray, until you realize just how limited your flash light really is at covering both above and below you. you thought it would be great to get out of the direct 95 degree sunlight which has been blinding you all day through the small cracks in the canopy...

sweet sweet chocolate comes from this tree, but who would know in the jungle

but then you noticed just how small those cracks are. The sun is setting and the buzz and the bird sounds are taking on a whole new terrifying meaning. Above the canopy it still looks like daylight but with the limited light you have you cant tell the roots from the leaves from the mud from the snake apart anymore. 

these guys buddies will see you later, IN THE DARK!

You turn on your headlamp which you love because it means where ever you look is flooded with mediocre light... But here come the flying things. The moths and flies and suddenly you are that much more terrified by the things that buzz in the night and are coming right for your face!

9) There is no good way, but there is a worse way.

Hey your guide is awesome at pointing out things you wouldn't see even if he gave you his telescope thing... And he does give you his telescope thing regularly to help point them out.

this is the guide showing us a termite hive

But the truth is you are going nuts searching the ground and the air, and ignoring the buzz and the sweat and the itch on your back... So he will be 15 feet ahead of you and you will sometimes feel completely all on your own.

keep up or you will be left behind...

So remember to try to follow the path(if there is one) and guess ok... 

the goo from this tree will heal you... if you can remember which tree

There is no good way to avoid all the little potential awful things...but there is certainly a worse way. So avoid falling on your face... Or getting eaten... Or being bitten by a snake that will kill you in 7 hours depending on body weight and your breathing (slow calm and bugless is better) and just remember

10) The jungle is the jungle 

When you are there you realize very quickly that the ecosystem is in constant competition. Everything is trying to kill everything or get the competitive advantage by teaming up at the deadliest killing machine.

this monkey is thinking about how to eat you

this tree pairs up with the killer ants, attack the tree and you will die

The decay and death provides the nutrients for everything above it, which is why rainforest soil is so poor. In the end everything goes to the ants and perhaps the cannabalistic trees.

this tree ate another tree!!

And you will too if you don't keep clean, wear bug spray and get out as soon as possible.

Ok These ten truths aside. The jungle is incredible. We stayed mostly in the Cultural Zone of Manu National Park, 

this is area is basically designated for tourists and we got to see a lot of awesome things including a ton of birds, bugs and some sweet mammals (tapirs, capybaras and several types of monkeys). Oh and tons of cool plants.

some of these trees are 500 years old

We also got to check out a animal refuge for animals that are either rehabilitating or cannot return to the wild. The animals are fairly free to go as they please... Which meant lots of jumping on you, occasionally biting you, and lots of wrestling amongst themselves. 

this dudes friend bit me on the foot!

I am glad to not live in the jungle. While on the walks we were occasionally playing hypothetical games like what would be worse living in the jungle or... 

Or if you could live for 20 extra years but had to live in the jungle would you... 

Collectively besides the food from an excellent cook, most of us seemed to concur that the best part of the jungle is being on the boats staring at the water ( destined for the Amazon and eventually the atlanic ocean) or at the banks where you can see the jungle but can't quite hear it. 

Oh and the wrestling match...

a monkey a dog and a south american raccoon walk into a refuge...

Cusco

I am having a difficult time trying to write a post about Cusco. I have been here for over a week now. I really love this city and I totally understand why so many travelers "get stuck" here. 

There is a sort of vibe in the air that something is happening. A life giving force -but that's a little difficult to describe. Furthermore considering that while I've been here I have done less than normal, it's hard to say that Cusco makes you feel connected or productive.

So what have I been up to?

Well the most productive thing I have done is take Spanish classes. It's only two hours a day, private lesson style with homework. My teachers name is Amaulta and she is hilarious and we have a great time. For the most part though, I am simply reviewing things I have forgotten. But it's nice to build confidence and be sure of the words coming out of my mouth. I suspect that I would need at least two more weeks here to really be getting ahead, and because I haven't heard of any job opportunities I decided that I should get back on the road (to feel more productive). 

There are three big squares near my hostel, they have big important looking buildings. I dont know what this one is.

Cusco is in a valley surrounded by hills.

Secondly I have been hanging out with people. I met a few Australians here who were really lovely people.  I tagged along on a few of their day adventures when I hadn't planned anything.

On one of the days we went on a walking tour that took us to some great views of the city:

Plaza de Armas (The main square)

Cristo blanco on the hill overlooking Cusco

In the last 50-60 years Cusco has grown dramatically

As well as some ruins (Saksaywaman) on the outskirts of town that are famous for their massive stone blocks. 

And to a wool craft store where we learned about llama/alpaca items, quality and natural dyes. 

We also got to see a collection of handmade instruments used locally, of course with a demonstration of their beautiful sound. 

Armadillo shell guitar

A day or two later we went to the precolombian art museum which had displays of all of the major historical cultural groups of Peru -including many I'd seen before like the Chavin, Moche and the Chimu ("Cities of the North"). But it also included items from the Nasca and Wari and some of which I'd never heard before. 

On several days in the last week I have been to the local San Pedro Market, so named because it is the market across the street from San Pedro church. The market is sort of a mix of a traditional market and a tourist market. It has a section for cooked food, a section for juices and smoothies, a fruit and veg section, a nuts and dried foods section, a meat and fish section,  a traditional medicine and ritual goods section and then a lot of tourist/colorful clothes. 

Highlights of the market?  

Well some of the other people I have been hanging out with got full meals in the cooked food section for between $1.50-2.50.  One of then also got 4 glasses of fresh blended fruit punch (pure fruit) for about $2. 

But my favorite so far has to be the dried llama fetuses used for ritual sacrifices...

Because the market is fairly standard I didn't take many pictures. I've also noticed that because I have more time in Cusco I've been less diligent with the camera. 

Mostly with different friend groups I've been going out to eat, walking around, exploring little art galleries and craft markets. 

Taking pictures of the statues and murals that try to show the heritage of the people and what life looked like in this exact location around 600 years ago. 

The presence of the Incan empire  (called Tawantinsuyo if you want to be more accurate) is everywhere in this their former capital. Whether it is the ruins throughout the city and the surrounding area, or the remnants of the walls on which the Spaniards built their churches and colonial houses. Or the dress, and language of the people... Or the rituals that are still performed. 

Tawantinsuyo walls are built at a slight angle, and tend to have perfectly cut stone

Though this seems like a tourist show, it was at a market entirely full of locals

Yesterday I went to the Inca Museum which describes the history and culture of the empire (NO PICS ALLOWED). It also described the fall, and subsequent merging of the Spanish and Tawantisuyo cultures.  The Inca families (the rulers) married into the Spanish lines, and started wearing Spanish clothes. Incanismo developed, this simultaneous oppression of the people while glorifying their cultural past. Cusco is the epitome of incanismo, a place that is so modern and western friendly, while simultaneously  so native... 

Some tourists I have met have said they find it too cheesy, too openly touristic, but I think they have missed that this is the merging of these two cultures.  Andean peoples are both Christian and traditional. They speak Spanish and Quechua. They drink chicha and coca cola. They have smart phones and wear traditional clothes. Their rituals include coca leaf, and store bought cookies. 

They are not a dead culture, but a living changing one.  It's not as simple as celebrating something old like Machu Picchu, because these sites are still used for rituals (with plastic baby dolls, and synthetic costumes). 

Women and children in "traditional dress" pose for pictures with tourists and llamas

I have been really enjoying the company these last few days, getting to know people, writing and drawing more, working on my Spanish and laughing a lot.  I am really grateful for the people I've met, but I am now looking forward to seeing some more of this world.

-This weekend I am headed to Manu.

-Next week I will check out the Cuscan Churches and museums.

-After that I will check out the Sacred  Valley and Machu Picchu.

Then I will head south to Puno and the Lake Titicaca region. 

P.S.

Work
I am starting to worry I won't find a job that feels right here. I keep getting told there is tons of work, but I've found almost all of it is in places id rather not spend a year (massive cities). I am not giving up hope or anything, but I am also starting to wonder if I will have to follow through on my backup plan to head elsewhere after South America.  
To be fair I haven´t tried very hard. A few emails and some online research. 

Altitude
Its funny to be at this altitude, you walk up steps and get winded. You get up too quickly and feel a little dizzy. Most people I have met have had low level sickness (sore throats, headaches). I've met a few people who had severe reactions (vomiting, migraines, reemergence of illnesses). Its not something to take lightly and yet most people do. Cusco more than any other place I have been is full of short trip tourists - people who are on a tight schedule, so regardless of how they feel they head out on the trek. 
One of the symptoms that is a little more amusing is sleep disturbances. I haven`t heard a good explanation why this happens, but a lot of people have really vivid dreams and talk more often in their sleep. I am in living in hostel dorm rooms (10-14 people) so each night there is usually about two people talking in their sleep. Its funny. I don´t know if I am doing it, but I am waking up crabby and unrested so maybe I am having some nightstruggles. 

Mike 
I have been really happy lately meeting cool folks, like happier than I´d been in a few weeks. I have also been really struggling with the lack of purpose. The school year started up this week in the US. There is a part of me that feels like I am missing out.  The traveling lifestyle means you are constantly starting and ending things, new adventures and relationships come and go in days, sometimes hours. Its hard to feel like you arent committed to something larger, to feel like the thing you are devoting yourself to is so transitory.  

   

Visuales de Cusco

Estoy en Cusco por mucho tiempo. Estoy aprendiendo Español en clase cada día, también estoy caminando en la cuidad y cerca el región. 

Hay mucho arte, y historia en Cusco, pero no sé lo que compartir. 

Hay ruinas debajo de las calles. 

También en la calle, muchos vendedores con cosas, incluye comida(papas y verduras, juguetes, ropa). Las mercancías siempre muy colorido.

En Cusco es un historia grande.

Esta iglesia se encuentra en un templo de los Incas. Todos los edificios antiguos en Cusco, contienen ladrillos de piedra de edificios incas. 

Aquí más arte de Cusco: