Antigua/Hobbitengango

After several hard weeks at work, a group of us decided to head back to the beautiful city of Antigua again. Though this time, many of the group were especially excited about an adventure to the newly opened Hobbitenango hostel (a lord of the rings, hobbit themed hostel).

We started the day on a chicken bus (technically I got amazing pancakes before we left), a chicken bus is a large converted bus that operates as a collectivo (people get on and off as you make your way). Our chicken bus was especially empty in that there were only a few seats that had three people in the two person spot, and only once did someone have to stand.

When we got to Antigua we did a little souvenir shopping and had lunch at Frida's a mexican restaurant with lots of pictures of Frida Kahlo. The made our way through the streets to the shuttle that would take us up the mountain. We waited for friends for a bit, and then decided to meet up with them later.

The hostel is located about 15-20 minutes drive up a near by mountain. The van took us to the drop off spot and we walked another 15 mins virtually straight up to the spot. Upon arrival we were quickly shown around and then the crew had a few drinks before setting off for a quick hike. We weren't quite sure where we were going which added to the sense of adventure but also a bit of anxiety when it felt like we had walked to the other side of the mountain.

When we got back, we spent most of the time huddling near the heater and waiting for dinner while chatting. The place doesn't have electricity so it was candles and acoustic guitar and good conversation all night before an early bed time.

The wind picked up this weekend, it was probably the coldest it has been since I got here, so sleeping was a tad tricky with the tin roof of the building clanging loudly with each gust of wind. The three buildings are made out of recycled materials. Soon they will start making earthen buildings like a hobbit village.

This morning we froze. I had had my phone set to Minneapolis time which was accurate until this morning's day light savings. So I woke everyone up an hour early, and later we found out there was no shuttle down the mountain till 10:30, so we huddled with blankets, talking future travel plans etc.

When we finally made it down to Antigua we had some time for shopping and more coffee. I went with coffee. The chicken bus home was much more crowded, and the driver did not believe in slowing down on turns, or easing on the breaks.

Showers and errands... and here I am.

Guatemala City

Its been just a few days over a month here in Guatemala. Work has been more difficult than I imagined and I don't have a lot of time to get out of the immediate neighborhood (much to my dismay).

After a few days of feeling sick, I went out today and explored a little of the historic district by myself, then to another area with some of my coworkers.  It was really nice getting to explore a bit, it made me feel capable again which is not something I have been feeling a whole lot of lately.

To get to zone one, I took the public transit and on the way chatted with an older gentleman who has spent most of his life in the US and was waiting on Social Security payments. He had a foul mouth but seemed like an optimist. We got out at the same station, I walked around the corner through some market stalls and realized I had gotten out a few blocks from the stop I wanted, but that it hadn't mattered. 

I had two missions. First, I needed some clothes for a 1920s themed party and was headed to the thrift stores (the big chain is called mega paca). The other goal was to check out some of the historic buildings and squares and generally be a tourist(without a camera).

As I wandered throughout the area I realized that due to the decay, even the nice old buildings seem in desperate need of a makeover, and when they are surrounded by buildings in disrepair, it gives off a vibe that the history isn't all that important. That tourism isn't the business of the area, instead there are hundreds, perhaps thousands of small stalls, street vendors, street performers, and shops. Its a downtown market, that happens to include some old churches and a few museums/government offices.

I stumbled into a gallery in the ministry of art and culture, but other than that didn't find much. Many of the buildings were closed. The municipal cathedral was pretty bare and under construction. The main plaza didn't have much to look at.  There were about 4 buildings in total with beautiful facades but the surroundings didn't promote their grandeur, rather they subdued it... and it reminded me of other rundown spaces that could use a facelift.

Later in the day I went on a shopping expedition to a mall and shopping area(in zone 11) that we pass every day on the way home from work. I had wanted to check it out because it seemed like a fairly safe area but not too close to the area I end up walking most days.

But as we went inside I realized it was kind of just like all the other malls. We walked around the neighborhood, a mix of suburban commercialism and the sort of rundown garage looking buildings you see every where here. Crumbly walls and razor wire.

This evening we went to zone 4 to celebrate a birthday. It felt weird to be making a spectacle of ourselves in this city where I usually try to subdue my foreignness as much as possible. It felt like we were making ourselves a target but there were 20 of us, so who cares right.
We ended up down this side street with a bunch of low key open street bars. They were classy establishments, but I am sure they keep the neighbors up late.

The whole day made me realize both that I tend to assume the worst about this city (that it is overly dangerous), but also that the city is smaller than it seems. Like I was basically in 5 different zones today and got to see a good portion of them.  They seemed walkable and I am sort of happy that I got to go see them, now I want to see more.

Its possible next weekend we will head back to Antigua. I think its important that I try to strike a balance between my side goals (travel, writing, art, spanish, social life, etc) and work.
So far work has been really demanding and not very rewarding. But today was really fun and good for me. So maybe I just need to carve out more of this.

A side note

This morning I went to the grocery store near the apartment to buy juice for a brunch. On the way I passed a man at a large vendor stand who was grilling up a feast of different meats and soups for the people who might want a post church lunch. About 50 yards down the line I saw a couple grilling their breakfast using a grate over the cement planters that lined the sidewalk. Basically they had dug out the soil and plants and filled it with garbage or charcoal and we're cooking with it. 

This observation given without opinion. 

Zone 1

Zone 1 is the historical center and though I'd been here many years ago I didn't actually visit it when i was here... So yesterday was my first time down there. 

We went for the shopping, there are a few big thrift stores and I needed some work shirts. Some of my coworkers wanted to go thrift shopping too, plus there is a big produce market so we took a short bus trip 4-5 stops and got off in front of the market. 

There are a few big churches, some old arches and some buildings that might be a few hundred years old, but what is most noticeable are the people on the street, the vendors and good.  There are  several blocks of street vendors around the market, they sell fruits and veggies, DVDs and electronics, school supplies and house goods... Basically anything you want and fairly cheap. There are also artists who will do temporary tattoos, street performers and girls who will braid stuff into your hair.   

Unfortunately there are also a lot people with physical disabilities that are begging for money, which is hard to see. In many countries you can assume there are some basic services for people who are incapable of helping themselves but in Guatemala I am not sure there is a safety net.  

There are stores for rich and poor, lots of gringos hanging out in sit down restaurants, and lots of locals eating  street-foods like fresh fruits and fried stuff and grilled meats. Some of my coworkers love the tacos you can find down there. 

In just a few hours yesterday I got a taste of a larger Guatemala City, that though run down was pretty lively.  It made me really happy and I eagerly look forward to going back. 

Maps

Here I am in Guatemala City.

 

I started this blog with a map of where I had been, here is the update with South America included. 

 

Before I head home, I'd like to include more of Central America (5 more countries) and perhaps the Caribbean(lots of countries, but hoping to go to Cuba). 

Later in life I will try to check out some of those white countries.

 

First Week

I know no one actually cares but I feel a little weird about never finishing posts from the last trip.

I find myself in Guate, with bad wifi.

Today I went to the big grocery store.
It had everything you would normally find in a grocery store, but my favorite part was that the people giving samples had moveable tables and would kind of seek you out. Also there were people who were not giving samples, but nonetheless trying to sell a product that was on sale. There were also people stocking the shelves. All in all this meant that there were sometimes 2-3 workers per aisle.

JOBS!!! 

When you go around Guatemala there is no doubt the country is poor, but it feels like the people do alright because everyone is working. Every business has like 5 extra people working. At restaurants three different waiters will serve you. At the office store 5 different people will ask if you want help. At my school it feels like there are 50 workers who do maintenance, clean and monitor the buses. Outside our building there are two armed guards. There are usually 2-3 people at the security desk inside, and someone a guy at the door who will open the door for you. Are you picking up what I am throwing down?  I am sure the pay is low, but holy crap do they find ways to give people jobs in this country. 

MALLS

I worked in a mall for 5 years. I have a love hate relationship with malls. I love the people watching, the colors and lighting, the scenery that is a modern day market, but not always what the advertising or the products stand for...  normally I just try to ignore it all, and then it turns out ok. 

When I am traveling I LOVE going to malls. Its such an easy way to get to know a culture. In Paraguay we kept going into these run down, weird hodge podgy malls. It wasn't that they were terrible, horrible malls, just felt not quite put together... just like Paraguay.

In Zone 10 of Guate, there are at least 4 malls. I have been going to 1-2 a day because there isn't much else to do except walk around the swanky commercial area and check out the various kinds of shops. I don't really buy anything. Sometimes check prices. But its more to see what the people are into, what the different classes buy, what items appeal to who. 

The other night I went to a movie with some of my new coworkers, potential new friends (yea). We walked into the Oakland mall, and immediately I knew I'd been there before. This was the mall where I deliberated getting Pizza hut, and seeing a movie. In my memory it was on the other side of the street, but the layout was the same. It means nothing and yet provided such a feeling of familiarity, like much of this area. 

Next week we will head to Antigua, and I am sure it will strike me in the same way. That familiarity, that comfort mixed with the jazz fireworks of realizing your memory is a little off, and this is a new experience... a new moment. 

First Impressions

About 4.5 years ago I took a trip to Mexico, Belize and Guatemala. Of the places I saw in the three countries I enjoyed my time in Guatemala the most.  I remember feeling like the country had a ton to offer within a very small space. Ancient ruins, colonial cities, jungle, mountains, small towns, massive cities, a mix of modern conveniences and old school indigenous culture -this was the abundance I was hoping for and found here. 

Within that framework, Guatemala City was the big scary city that everyone told me not to go to, and yet after spending just a night or two I remember wishing I could have seen more.

Well I'm back, staying not too far from where I stayed last time. I was hoping some of the scenery, the chaos, the feeling of it being slightly dangerous would have passed or changed. Like maybe in the 5 years "Guate" would have matured and settled down a bit. But it seems as lively as ever. 

What has changed is me. In my years of growing up, in my having adapted and grown accustom to some of the things I'm seeing here because of other travel experiences, I've found that I look on this city much differently than before. 

Perhaps it is my purpose here, already in less than 2 days I've realized how different it is to try to set up a new life somewhere as opposed to just traveling.

Perhaps it is the other massive cities I've been to, this one barely even ranks now in comparison to some of the cities I saw in South America. 

Perhaps it is just the fact that I've changed enough that things feel easier now.

Regardless Guate seems like an OK place.  

I am living in the most commercial area, a few blocks away are several malls, chains restaurants, fancy hotels etc.

I work at a school that is basically it's own little village compound. A campus including what feels like alley ways to different areas of child development such as the early learning section and the high school area.

In between home and work, is a 30 minute bus ride (estimated by Google to be a 2hour walk). The ride twists through some neighborhoods but mostly takes long traffic congested routes through neighborhoods that look much tougher than the area I am in.  While riding home today I tried to compare it to South American cities but found the comparisons fell short. There were street side stands, auto garages, corner stores etc, but  somehow it looked different to me, more Mexican than Peruvian I guess. Even a lot of the language is Mexican Spanish vs South American Spanish, which requires me to drop words I've been using and replace them with the ones I learned in high school and college.

That being said the biggest hassle so far is the pollution and traffic and that feels very much like South America.  All the buses and trucks are spewing out dark smoke and numerous times I've had to cough it out. The air near the roads is thick with it, and because traffic is a huge reckless pain, pedestrians like myself often wind up on the curb waiting for our 15 second chance to run across the street.

As for work and the apartment.  Well there is a strange smell in my room I can't figure out, and apparently we do have cockroaches, but otherwise the apartment seems really nice.  The school too is a beautiful complex half indoor half outdoor with wonderful well maintained grounds. 

For professional reasons I won't be writing much about the school, but I will try to bring up some cultural things when I see them. 

I can say for now that it seems like I will be working very hard. And will probably be exhausted on many nights mostly from the mental stress of remembering to maintain a million procedural things that have nothing to do with teaching directly but create an environment in which high standards are upheld. So yeah.

I may also not have as many photos as before, around until I settle in... who knows, maybe I will buy a cheap camera and take it every where.