Xela

When I first got to Xela it was raining, dismal and gray. I knew it was the weather and the fact that Id been cooped up in a shuttle bus for 7 hours, but I couldn't shake the feeling that I needed to leave sooner than I had planned. 

I decided to make the most of the rest of the evening by doing a sort of survey of the city. Quetzaltenango(Nicknamed Xela based on its original name Xelaju) is the second biggest city in Guatemala. Like the big city its polluted and crumbling in places. Like the big city it has a fair share of old and new. Like the big city it is packed with people... 

But as I got out and about, Xela started to feel nice, maybe it was the fact that through the rain clouds you could actually see the surrounding country, maybe it was that mix of outdoor eateries and spanish court yard restaurants,

Or maybe the strange totally out of place Romanesque architecture of all the big monuments and important buildings...

Over time though I realized it was not the buildings and businesses both familiar  and new, or the open air markets or the awesome french fry place... 

It was the kids.

Even in the rain last night, even in the dark when I was walking home, or all day today I saw children. School age kids in uniforms, youth with backpacks, college age kids coming out of classes... This city is full of schools and universities (and spanish language schools for tourists)... But they are not hiding, or in a rush, or chaperoned by their parents. They are laughing and smiling innocently on street corners, walking down dark alleys and totally unafraid. Totally enjoying life the way young people should. 

If you have ever seen the movie Children of Men that is a little of how Guatemala City feels. It's not that there aren't children out playing or walking, but there is a constant fear... There is barbed wire, and guards everywhere. Children are handheld and briskly lead to where tey are going. It is an environment where hope is closely guarded, by shotguns and fear is ever present. But Xela doesn't feel that way. It's got the crowded streets, te horn honking the exhaust, the same shopping centers and coffee shops, but the fear doesn't seem

as prevalent. The city feels like a breah of fresh air, still very Guatemalan, but comfortable.  

Antigua is a short distance from the city, but feels touristy. The lake has some nice small towns, but feels kind of cut off, like a vacation spot. The small towns feel very small... But perhaps Xela is the goldilocks of Guatemala. 

I'm leaving tomorrow or the next day. I won't be doing all the cool nature hikes or the cool cultural tours, but I am glad I got to come here for a bit. Just to experience a Guatemalan city that feels a little more natural.